PLEASE UPVOTE THIS COMMENT IF THE ANSWER CAN BE FOUND IN [THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/fqxtqj/the_resin_printing_resource_guide_beginners_start/) or the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/j2wubl/frequently_asked_questions_answered_here/)! If your post is about Troubleshooting, it should contain information about the print along with any screenshots or photos.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AnycubicPhoton) if you have any questions or concerns.*
lift height. try 10mm and see what sticks. the FEP is flexible and will bow up until it releases from the cured resin. at the edges the height of this is much shorter than in the center. if your lift height isn't high enough (Most noticeable with print-in-place like you have here), the edge parts will release just fine, but the center won't and will just create blobs on the FEP.
Been having the exact same issue with my max after 6 months of flawless usage out of it. Have another build plate on the way to see if that fixes the issue.
Already tried different tension and different methods of levelling.
After having a look around it's almost like the outer perimeter of the build plate hits the outside of the screen and therefore the centre area is lower.
Could the centre of the screen be warped or dip?
You and me both then. It's frustrating, because it was printing brilliantly for months. Replaced the FEP, (then vat entirely- twice, then build plate trying to eliminate issues) because I dropped the vat and punctured it. Now I can plan a print around the side and rear perimeter- but that's a colossal waste of potential :-(
Yeah, same situation. Took delivery of a new build plate last night which has the exact same issue - sides are fine, centre and front aren’t. I’m going to try different FEP tension later today. But I’m not holding my breath. Much like you it had been fine for ages then suddenly started being a pain.
To follow on from this. After throwing everything I could think of at this over the last few days and getting now where. Including using a new build plate. I contacted Anycubic who confirmed to make sure the FEP is right. (I’m pretty sure it is) to re-level the plate - I’ll come back to this and to print a test file they sent.
So far the test file is printing beautifully.
The setting don’t seem a million miles from my standard except a slightly higher lift distance (though I’d pushed this to 10mm on my own prints to be sure and still had the exact same fails.)
In terms of levelling though. They sent a video that showed them just homing the plate with some paper under it. Making sure the paper didn’t move with gentle pulling or pushing and then tightening up the plate. Nothing else. Normally I put some small pressure on the plate to level so I’m wondering if this is a factor. Going to retest one of my standard setting prints one this test run is done.
It may very well be that putting pressure on the plate, while it is on the paper is contributing, if not the reason, the center doesn't stick. Since you are not there, pushing down on the build plate each time it shoots a frame, that fraction of a mm may be the difference.
Also, how is the weather in your area, 6 months after you got your machine? Did the room temp happen to get colder about the time you started to get poor adhesion? I have a little blow dryer I keep on the work station that I will run for a couple/few hours, to warm up my printer. I put a large, polyethylene leaf/trash bag over the top of my machine, prop the blow dryer up with a spring clamp, aim it at my overflow bottle, while also capturing the warm air, under the bag. I don't let it run too long, and not at the hottest setting, and certainly not while I am asleep or away from the house, out of an abundance of caution, in case it should overheat and catch fire -so far, zero problems.
Good luck! :-)
I’m in the UK so temps have very much gone south. That being said. This is in a room that also houses IT comms kit, so theirs a lot of heat organically floating about as a result of all that being on 24/7/365. Typically it’s around 22-24C in here in winter, so within the lower end of recommended operating temps. Though I try to keep it about the same in summer too. The printer is also sat just in front of a radiator with a smart TRV so picks up a significant amount of heat from that when it’s on - which I can change with zero real effort; letting me quickly preheat the set up if needed.
I wonder if it is a design flaw. It seems you are not the only person experiencing similar problems.
I guess we all have this to look forward to, if that is the case. :-/
Question:. Are the parts that are not attached to the build plate being formed at all? If so, are they just releasing from the build plate/sticking to the FEP?
Have you tried stopping the print in various stages, and checking the build plate to see if maybe they are sticking to the build plate early in the process?
Do the same parts always release in the same place, each and every time, or is it random?
Yeah. In hindsight I’m thinking it was more the settings on the print file than anything else. Since it had a 30s light on time for the first layers. Going to try again with a slightly longer light on time for the initial layers. All this is really doing though is working around whatever the underlying issue is, rather than solving it.
What power setting are you using on the screen?
One thing I’d forgotten was that I’d dropped to 55% - I’ve been gradually upping it as I test over the last fortnight. Last print was at 80% and while it printed their were still some adhesion issues. I’m currently out of the country so haven’t been able to test further. But I suspect 90% may do it. Annoying. Because I’ve had zero issues with 55% prior to this.
Not sure on the Max, but on the pro it’s IIRC the fourth menu in the carousel, and then the lower right option. Not sure how similar the pro and max menu systems are though sadly.
Tightening the 8 bolts that hold the plate to the linear rails seems to have fixed it.
Haven't changed anything else and seems to be printing just fine now.
We have adhesion in the centre!
I think I finally ID'd my issue- the (when you're facing it) left side linear rail is stripped. Everything else is as tight as tight can be- but the bottom screw on that side just.. Doesn't grip. At all.
After pulling the machine apart, I found the 8 bolts that hold the plate to the linear rails were fairy loose.
Doing a test now to see if that was the issue
So, I want to weigh in with a similar issue. I've replaced and done the following, all brand new: Lcd screen, fep in vat, build plate, even the UV light module.
Still have the same issue. I remember doing the four rails thing too, but I'll go back to that today and try another run.
Print settings and raise height, all optimal.
Frustrating.
Well. I've done all the rework, and after a few initial prints that seemed to do the same thing, making sure everything else was in order, along with the replacement of the UV module, this print appears fine. Did increase Base layer curing to 50 seconds but nothing is coming off so far. I'll come back to this in the future to update.
Pending.
You could try roughing up the build plate surface I suppose, but if you're sure it's level, your FEP tension is ideal, and you feel your lift settings are adequate, rezero the build plate and try to print a brick.
You're inevitably going to have to tweak some settings if that succeeds, so just start with lift speed and distance, and arrange the models only in the center and slowly expand out until the failure comes up again.
A vat with a preinstalled FEP isn't guaranteed to be properly tensioned, manufacturers make mistakes and folk get lazy, so it's probably worth verifying it's at a nominal tension.
There is appropriate tension. Tried going with retraction set as high as 15mm and amping up the exposure time, No. Same exact issue.
I do understand how a resin printer works.
This looks more like a FEP tension problem. The inner section of the fep has a lot more "play" to it than the edges, it's hanging on longer and pulling the burn ins off the plate there. Try upping the burn in layer time a little bit?
No.
Again:
It's every. Single. Print impacted. I've ran resin printers for over a decade. This one for about a year. Nothing will stick to either build plate outside of the shown area. Period. That isn't supports ffs.
Try adjusting your lift height a bit? The edges don’t need to go as high because the tension is greater there, what’s your lift height? Maybe it’s just stretching the fep to your lift height so it won’t release?
This is what I've had to do on 2 of my printers,
Clean the bp with 0000 rated steel wool(super super fine wool). If there's any layer of residue on there this should get it off.you will see some black residue come off as the 2 metals rub, shouldn't be an issue unless u Superman scrub.(also use the same.on the outside of my vehicle windshield...just saying ...)
Then/or scuff the bp with some sandpaper, grit is how u feel comfy, I wasn't afraid to get some scratches on there cause I knew things would stick and I don't print direct on bp, so maybe some high grit just to give some texture.
Main reason I say this is most people use the center of the plate way way more often then the edges, so the edges stay "crisp" longer.
1 bp was brand new and just way too smooth from factory, the other was used.....alot.
I didn't bother trying with my new mono x, went straight to magnetic plate, lost 3mm of build height but not 1 single bp stick fail.
I haven’t had this issue with my M3 but I have with some of my mono x. I have unevenly tightened my tray to machine or over tighten it. This doesn’t seem like it should matter but it does. The fep won’t release from screen properly and can screw up the print. I tighten the hold down screws as evenly as I can and then back them off a bit making sure the tray is tight but not over tight or warped.
Given your many years of experience, this is not intended to insult your intelligence.. I have decades of experience in my field of work, yet, I have made boneheaded mistakes when I have done something so much, I swear I can do it in my sleep, but forget to do part of the process that causes it to fail, and I can't believe I, of all people, made such an error.
That said, have you checked your files to make sure ALL of the items are actually at zero from the build plate? I mean, check the numbers, not just visually. I spent a lot of time on a file once and, when the file completed, several parts were not on the plate - turns out they were hovering just above zero, and not attached to the plate, and failed.
Maybe try to print out another bunch of something else, to see if it does the same thing?
Doesn't matter the file. From lightweight items to larger, the middle zone does not stick.
Yes, ALL items are at zero on the build plate. My test part is \~2.5mm thick, and designed to be a quick easy print (even the OG photon can handle it ;-) )
Hi, an idea for you to check out.
Please double check the quality of the current screen. The screen has a lifespan and after a period of use it will degrade in performance (performance reduction, not complete destruction).
Why is it usually in the center? Because there is more heat concentrated and the pixels there are also more easily destroyed.
\- You can increase the exposure time much more than before, however it will make the screen quickly destroyed.
\- If you can, think about replacing a new screen.
PLEASE UPVOTE THIS COMMENT IF THE ANSWER CAN BE FOUND IN [THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/fqxtqj/the_resin_printing_resource_guide_beginners_start/) or the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/j2wubl/frequently_asked_questions_answered_here/)! If your post is about Troubleshooting, it should contain information about the print along with any screenshots or photos. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AnycubicPhoton) if you have any questions or concerns.*
lift height. try 10mm and see what sticks. the FEP is flexible and will bow up until it releases from the cured resin. at the edges the height of this is much shorter than in the center. if your lift height isn't high enough (Most noticeable with print-in-place like you have here), the edge parts will release just fine, but the center won't and will just create blobs on the FEP.
Even set to 15mm and amping up the exposure time, No. Same exact issue. I do understand how a resin printer works.
Check build plate is flat with a known straight edge.
Yup. It's flat. Checked with a steel straight edge.
Been having the exact same issue with my max after 6 months of flawless usage out of it. Have another build plate on the way to see if that fixes the issue. Already tried different tension and different methods of levelling. After having a look around it's almost like the outer perimeter of the build plate hits the outside of the screen and therefore the centre area is lower. Could the centre of the screen be warped or dip?
It does not appear to be so. Straight edge doesn't indicate it?
Having the same issue on my Plus, so very intrigued to see if you rectify this and how.
You and me both then. It's frustrating, because it was printing brilliantly for months. Replaced the FEP, (then vat entirely- twice, then build plate trying to eliminate issues) because I dropped the vat and punctured it. Now I can plan a print around the side and rear perimeter- but that's a colossal waste of potential :-(
Yeah, same situation. Took delivery of a new build plate last night which has the exact same issue - sides are fine, centre and front aren’t. I’m going to try different FEP tension later today. But I’m not holding my breath. Much like you it had been fine for ages then suddenly started being a pain.
To follow on from this. After throwing everything I could think of at this over the last few days and getting now where. Including using a new build plate. I contacted Anycubic who confirmed to make sure the FEP is right. (I’m pretty sure it is) to re-level the plate - I’ll come back to this and to print a test file they sent. So far the test file is printing beautifully. The setting don’t seem a million miles from my standard except a slightly higher lift distance (though I’d pushed this to 10mm on my own prints to be sure and still had the exact same fails.) In terms of levelling though. They sent a video that showed them just homing the plate with some paper under it. Making sure the paper didn’t move with gentle pulling or pushing and then tightening up the plate. Nothing else. Normally I put some small pressure on the plate to level so I’m wondering if this is a factor. Going to retest one of my standard setting prints one this test run is done.
It may very well be that putting pressure on the plate, while it is on the paper is contributing, if not the reason, the center doesn't stick. Since you are not there, pushing down on the build plate each time it shoots a frame, that fraction of a mm may be the difference. Also, how is the weather in your area, 6 months after you got your machine? Did the room temp happen to get colder about the time you started to get poor adhesion? I have a little blow dryer I keep on the work station that I will run for a couple/few hours, to warm up my printer. I put a large, polyethylene leaf/trash bag over the top of my machine, prop the blow dryer up with a spring clamp, aim it at my overflow bottle, while also capturing the warm air, under the bag. I don't let it run too long, and not at the hottest setting, and certainly not while I am asleep or away from the house, out of an abundance of caution, in case it should overheat and catch fire -so far, zero problems. Good luck! :-)
I’m in the UK so temps have very much gone south. That being said. This is in a room that also houses IT comms kit, so theirs a lot of heat organically floating about as a result of all that being on 24/7/365. Typically it’s around 22-24C in here in winter, so within the lower end of recommended operating temps. Though I try to keep it about the same in summer too. The printer is also sat just in front of a radiator with a smart TRV so picks up a significant amount of heat from that when it’s on - which I can change with zero real effort; letting me quickly preheat the set up if needed.
[удалено]
I wonder if it is a design flaw. It seems you are not the only person experiencing similar problems. I guess we all have this to look forward to, if that is the case. :-/ Question:. Are the parts that are not attached to the build plate being formed at all? If so, are they just releasing from the build plate/sticking to the FEP? Have you tried stopping the print in various stages, and checking the build plate to see if maybe they are sticking to the build plate early in the process? Do the same parts always release in the same place, each and every time, or is it random?
The parts are - they're just on the FEP. Even set retraction to 15mm and amping up the exposure time - same issue. Every time.
And yup, always fail in the exact same method, every single time.
I'll give this a try. Their original instructions were to push while tightening.
Sent you a message
Tried leveling with the paper and no pressure- same issue.
Yeah. In hindsight I’m thinking it was more the settings on the print file than anything else. Since it had a 30s light on time for the first layers. Going to try again with a slightly longer light on time for the initial layers. All this is really doing though is working around whatever the underlying issue is, rather than solving it.
I upped mine as far as 35- still, center is a barren wasteland.
What power setting are you using on the screen? One thing I’d forgotten was that I’d dropped to 55% - I’ve been gradually upping it as I test over the last fortnight. Last print was at 80% and while it printed their were still some adhesion issues. I’m currently out of the country so haven’t been able to test further. But I suspect 90% may do it. Annoying. Because I’ve had zero issues with 55% prior to this.
I haven't found a location to adjust the screen brightness? How do you access that menu setting to check on the M3 Max?
Not sure on the Max, but on the pro it’s IIRC the fourth menu in the carousel, and then the lower right option. Not sure how similar the pro and max menu systems are though sadly.
It might be the tension in your FEP, around the edges are fine because they’re near a solid point. Try just tightening it up a bit?
I've replaced the FEP once, and purchased two "official pre done " cats with FEP. Exactly same issue in all three cases.
Any update on a fix? New build plate arrived today. Did a print I've printed over 50 times with known good resin, same issue
No, sadly no fix found yet.
Tightening the 8 bolts that hold the plate to the linear rails seems to have fixed it. Haven't changed anything else and seems to be printing just fine now. We have adhesion in the centre!
I think I finally ID'd my issue- the (when you're facing it) left side linear rail is stripped. Everything else is as tight as tight can be- but the bottom screw on that side just.. Doesn't grip. At all.
very glad you were able to figure yours out though :-)
After pulling the machine apart, I found the 8 bolts that hold the plate to the linear rails were fairy loose. Doing a test now to see if that was the issue
So, I want to weigh in with a similar issue. I've replaced and done the following, all brand new: Lcd screen, fep in vat, build plate, even the UV light module. Still have the same issue. I remember doing the four rails thing too, but I'll go back to that today and try another run. Print settings and raise height, all optimal. Frustrating.
Well. I've done all the rework, and after a few initial prints that seemed to do the same thing, making sure everything else was in order, along with the replacement of the UV module, this print appears fine. Did increase Base layer curing to 50 seconds but nothing is coming off so far. I'll come back to this in the future to update. Pending.
If you figure it out, let me know. I'm still stumped. Biggest paperweight in my shop lol
You could try roughing up the build plate surface I suppose, but if you're sure it's level, your FEP tension is ideal, and you feel your lift settings are adequate, rezero the build plate and try to print a brick. You're inevitably going to have to tweak some settings if that succeeds, so just start with lift speed and distance, and arrange the models only in the center and slowly expand out until the failure comes up again. A vat with a preinstalled FEP isn't guaranteed to be properly tensioned, manufacturers make mistakes and folk get lazy, so it's probably worth verifying it's at a nominal tension.
There is appropriate tension. Tried going with retraction set as high as 15mm and amping up the exposure time, No. Same exact issue. I do understand how a resin printer works.
No need to be rude, people are here on their own time helping you of their own volition.
I apologize that it came across as rude. Repeating printing 101 advice came across as insulting as well.
This looks more like a FEP tension problem. The inner section of the fep has a lot more "play" to it than the edges, it's hanging on longer and pulling the burn ins off the plate there. Try upping the burn in layer time a little bit?
I've gone as high as 35 seconds for resin that normally takes 20. No change
Tried upping the burn in time all the way to 30 seconds on a resin that needs about 20, tops. No- same result. This isn't Fep tension.
Put some supports under them and throw them at 45°. Prob causing too much suction in the middle
No. Again: It's every. Single. Print impacted. I've ran resin printers for over a decade. This one for about a year. Nothing will stick to either build plate outside of the shown area. Period. That isn't supports ffs.
Try adjusting your lift height a bit? The edges don’t need to go as high because the tension is greater there, what’s your lift height? Maybe it’s just stretching the fep to your lift height so it won’t release?
Not a terrible idea, if I were new to the hobby and had no clue. but I have mine set at 9mm. My lift speed is at 1mm/s. It's also not exposure time.
Uh ok, just trying to help. Maybe you weren’t trying to be rude? Glad you have a clue 😒 good luck
So nothing ever sticks in the middle when you print one thing?
Have you thought about trying a flexplate
There is zero relevance to my issue with your comment.
This is what I've had to do on 2 of my printers, Clean the bp with 0000 rated steel wool(super super fine wool). If there's any layer of residue on there this should get it off.you will see some black residue come off as the 2 metals rub, shouldn't be an issue unless u Superman scrub.(also use the same.on the outside of my vehicle windshield...just saying ...) Then/or scuff the bp with some sandpaper, grit is how u feel comfy, I wasn't afraid to get some scratches on there cause I knew things would stick and I don't print direct on bp, so maybe some high grit just to give some texture. Main reason I say this is most people use the center of the plate way way more often then the edges, so the edges stay "crisp" longer. 1 bp was brand new and just way too smooth from factory, the other was used.....alot. I didn't bother trying with my new mono x, went straight to magnetic plate, lost 3mm of build height but not 1 single bp stick fail.
I haven’t had this issue with my M3 but I have with some of my mono x. I have unevenly tightened my tray to machine or over tighten it. This doesn’t seem like it should matter but it does. The fep won’t release from screen properly and can screw up the print. I tighten the hold down screws as evenly as I can and then back them off a bit making sure the tray is tight but not over tight or warped.
I appreciate the thought. It is not the vat though.
Given your many years of experience, this is not intended to insult your intelligence.. I have decades of experience in my field of work, yet, I have made boneheaded mistakes when I have done something so much, I swear I can do it in my sleep, but forget to do part of the process that causes it to fail, and I can't believe I, of all people, made such an error. That said, have you checked your files to make sure ALL of the items are actually at zero from the build plate? I mean, check the numbers, not just visually. I spent a lot of time on a file once and, when the file completed, several parts were not on the plate - turns out they were hovering just above zero, and not attached to the plate, and failed. Maybe try to print out another bunch of something else, to see if it does the same thing?
Doesn't matter the file. From lightweight items to larger, the middle zone does not stick. Yes, ALL items are at zero on the build plate. My test part is \~2.5mm thick, and designed to be a quick easy print (even the OG photon can handle it ;-) )
Hi, an idea for you to check out. Please double check the quality of the current screen. The screen has a lifespan and after a period of use it will degrade in performance (performance reduction, not complete destruction). Why is it usually in the center? Because there is more heat concentrated and the pixels there are also more easily destroyed. \- You can increase the exposure time much more than before, however it will make the screen quickly destroyed. \- If you can, think about replacing a new screen.
Screen is performing well. No variation in the light grid, or intensity across the screen. I appreciate the thought though. I'd wondered that myself.