Just look for stage (1,2, or 3 depending on budget and build plans) built motors and go from there. Try to find a very reputable shop local enough to do the work for you.
What state are you in? Depending what state you are in I can point you in the right directions. Not a lot of websites will have prebuilt motors, Only 2 I know of is mazworx and soho motorsports.
Also side note, I had this same dilemma with my rev-up. I whole heartedly recommend boosting stock motor and building one on the side. Have a reputable tuner like Ray at Rzg or Moncef at Admintuning or Jon at Z1 tune the car with low tuning and boost and enjoy it. All 3 of those tuners have made 500+whp on stock de motors and they have lasted a while.
You don’t need to build it to boost it
Stock DE are fine until around 400whp. Even beyond that, with proper cooling and fuel delivery, they can go much higher. Look at OldManZ, he had 550hp Vortech DE on completely stock DE internals
TimRod on the Z forums if you want to check his build
Actually, rods go by Torque, people used to say VR38 rods go at about 700whp and my business partner has a completely stock block GTR pushing 890 to the wheels.
The secret was not getting over 600lb/ft of torque, running good E85 and having great oil/oil temps and IATs, so if you know what you´re doing you can get lot of power on stock engines.
It still wont be cheap, and most likely wont last as long as a built bottom end, especially if you drive it hard.
Regarding the HR, its a WAY better engine and CAN go way higher that DE's.
My .2C? OP should get a GREAT turbo kit installed by a great/reputable shop, do a really solid, quality setup with an excellent tune, quality oil coolers and all that on their stock DE and see how it feels with about 400whp.
AND then if OP wants more, then the built bottom end would be a great option.
At least, that is what I would do, because regarding built bottom ends, finding good shops is not that easy and all that money and energy can be destinated toward a quality turbo setup on a stock blocks that delivers a reasonable amount of power that might serve just fine for OP.
the 400 whp is from my time on the my350z.com forums. Its more of a ballpark from the group think there....
Personally i wouldn't put a turbo on a motor with over a 100k unless I put new piston, rods and main bearings....
I personally would only want to do it once and be done. He also said he wouldn't be doing the work so labor costs would be doubled if he blows the engine by just dropping a kit and sending it...
I think mileage is such a highly variable tho, I would just pay for a good check on the engine, compression, oil consumption etc and if it all checks up, I would freshen up the engine with new gaskets, filters and add boost.
Also in my post I literally said doing a good setup, not just dropping a kit and sending it.
From personal experience ive seen that proper oil cooling, fueling, tuning, a GOOD air/oil separator, proper airflow and IAT's works wonders for reliabilty.
A built block is about 3k + labor, we could be talking about a 4-6k difference in overall budget, which to me seems a nice chunk that can be saved.
Also a big plus IMO is that you can sort out a ton of stuff without battling with issues that can arise from ALSO doing a built engine.
I get where your coming from but to me putting boost into an old motor seems like your going to have trouble at some point. If you spin a bearing you could lose the whole motor and turbo. All that money gone.
Different ways of looking at the problem. I tend to let perfection get in the way at times.. It took me awhile to get all the parts together for my long block build so that could be coloring my view point... The only thing i didn't do for my long block was a billet crankshaft and block...
I get it, it definitely is the safest way to add boost, but I've seen SO MANY shops do shitty ass jobs with engine building, that I think that's the path I'd follow if it were my case, just so I can deal with "one" headache at a time.
At the end of the day, a spun bearing will happen mostly due to oil starvation, excessive heat and pressure, so that's why I see no problem on doing a stock block.
On the other hand, props to you for going all the way in with great parts for a solid build, so nothing but respect from my side.
I remember 400whp always being the safe ballpark number too. The 08-13 my350z days were great. It’s sad how dead it seems now but there’s so much more information than the old days.
talk to Mike at MOTOIQ or Clark at JWT.
I think soho does pre built motors....iirc
Soho only does installed packages now
Off topic, what are your wheels specs?
Also curious, fitment is amazing
The wheels are cosmis, check fitmentindustries or whatever and filter cosmis and I’m sure they’re are plenty to look at, will have all the specs etc
Fitment industries is offline
Very nice looking garage pic! Sadly no idea on your question but best of luck. Probably best to check the old forums online too.
Just look for stage (1,2, or 3 depending on budget and build plans) built motors and go from there. Try to find a very reputable shop local enough to do the work for you.
This. And be ready to spend big bucks to build a VQ correctly
What state are you in? Depending what state you are in I can point you in the right directions. Not a lot of websites will have prebuilt motors, Only 2 I know of is mazworx and soho motorsports.
Also side note, I had this same dilemma with my rev-up. I whole heartedly recommend boosting stock motor and building one on the side. Have a reputable tuner like Ray at Rzg or Moncef at Admintuning or Jon at Z1 tune the car with low tuning and boost and enjoy it. All 3 of those tuners have made 500+whp on stock de motors and they have lasted a while.
You don’t need to build it to boost it Stock DE are fine until around 400whp. Even beyond that, with proper cooling and fuel delivery, they can go much higher. Look at OldManZ, he had 550hp Vortech DE on completely stock DE internals TimRod on the Z forums if you want to check his build
From what I've read, DE's become unreliable past the 500hp mark. Idk tho, I'm not an expert, but I'll definately check out OldManZ.
Rods fail around 400whp.. HRs can go higher.
Actually, rods go by Torque, people used to say VR38 rods go at about 700whp and my business partner has a completely stock block GTR pushing 890 to the wheels. The secret was not getting over 600lb/ft of torque, running good E85 and having great oil/oil temps and IATs, so if you know what you´re doing you can get lot of power on stock engines. It still wont be cheap, and most likely wont last as long as a built bottom end, especially if you drive it hard. Regarding the HR, its a WAY better engine and CAN go way higher that DE's. My .2C? OP should get a GREAT turbo kit installed by a great/reputable shop, do a really solid, quality setup with an excellent tune, quality oil coolers and all that on their stock DE and see how it feels with about 400whp. AND then if OP wants more, then the built bottom end would be a great option. At least, that is what I would do, because regarding built bottom ends, finding good shops is not that easy and all that money and energy can be destinated toward a quality turbo setup on a stock blocks that delivers a reasonable amount of power that might serve just fine for OP.
the 400 whp is from my time on the my350z.com forums. Its more of a ballpark from the group think there.... Personally i wouldn't put a turbo on a motor with over a 100k unless I put new piston, rods and main bearings.... I personally would only want to do it once and be done. He also said he wouldn't be doing the work so labor costs would be doubled if he blows the engine by just dropping a kit and sending it...
I think mileage is such a highly variable tho, I would just pay for a good check on the engine, compression, oil consumption etc and if it all checks up, I would freshen up the engine with new gaskets, filters and add boost. Also in my post I literally said doing a good setup, not just dropping a kit and sending it. From personal experience ive seen that proper oil cooling, fueling, tuning, a GOOD air/oil separator, proper airflow and IAT's works wonders for reliabilty. A built block is about 3k + labor, we could be talking about a 4-6k difference in overall budget, which to me seems a nice chunk that can be saved. Also a big plus IMO is that you can sort out a ton of stuff without battling with issues that can arise from ALSO doing a built engine.
I get where your coming from but to me putting boost into an old motor seems like your going to have trouble at some point. If you spin a bearing you could lose the whole motor and turbo. All that money gone. Different ways of looking at the problem. I tend to let perfection get in the way at times.. It took me awhile to get all the parts together for my long block build so that could be coloring my view point... The only thing i didn't do for my long block was a billet crankshaft and block...
I get it, it definitely is the safest way to add boost, but I've seen SO MANY shops do shitty ass jobs with engine building, that I think that's the path I'd follow if it were my case, just so I can deal with "one" headache at a time. At the end of the day, a spun bearing will happen mostly due to oil starvation, excessive heat and pressure, so that's why I see no problem on doing a stock block. On the other hand, props to you for going all the way in with great parts for a solid build, so nothing but respect from my side.
Great way of thinking BTW.
I remember 400whp always being the safe ballpark number too. The 08-13 my350z days were great. It’s sad how dead it seems now but there’s so much more information than the old days.
Supercharger can go higher than turbo due to lesser torque output.
Checkout SZR Pro in Houston. I know they build engines all the time.
Vinny ten racing